Today we’re putting together the KR X OR Thermal Detonator. I’ve had my eye on this kit for awhile now and I lucked out, picking one up on their last run. You can get your own (or at least sign-up for their waiting list) here: http://bit.ly/KRThermalDetonatorKit
Check out the video, the instructions below and up your bounty hunting game today!
Tools & Materials
- Hex Driver Set (https://amzn.to/3skFWcP)
- Soldering Iron (https://amzn.to/3h3fU92)
- Solder (https://amzn.to/3mQwaOp)
- Wire
- Very Fine Scotch Brite Pads (https://amzn.to/2PYoYUm)
- Super Glue (https://amzn.to/36M1Vl5)
- Hot Glue
- Backup battery (https://amzn.to/3mRLuKO)
Instructions for the Mechanical Build
Switch Slider
Coming up from the bottom, screw the slide to the switch holder, with the “whale tale” facing back. Righten or loosen the screw to control the torque on the switch.
Superglue the panther track onto the slider, with the tiny nub facing the front of the detonator (the front is the side that has the hole for the LED on it).
Red LED
You’ll need to trim the flanges off the red LED cover for the sake of space. Just trim the bottoms of the flanges off, not the entire flange. While you’ll be able to glue the LED into place, leaving some of the flange on will allow you to pressure fit a bit better.
Glue the red lens into the lens holder, and then glue the 5mm LED into the red lens.
Also at this point, you can trim down the legs of the LED, just remember the long leg is positive, the short is negative, so trim the heights accordingly.
After the glue has cured, you can then glue this whole section into the hole on the detonator. There’s a recess in the metal LED holder, this is to help let the sound out of the device. I have it facing the back for optimal sound flow.
Side LEDs
Separate the white LED holders.
Using a 1.3mm hex driver, insert the smaller grub screws into the midsection (below the holes for the LEDs). Don’t go all the way through, this is just to get them ready for the next step.
Take one of the metal LED holder rings, and place over one of the white plastic LED holders and insert into one of the holes in the midsection.
Slowly tighten down the grub screw so it just hits the metal ring. You don’t want to go too tight as to break the plastic holder or otherwise damage the metal ring. Just a snug fit.
Repeat for the other two holes.
The Bottom
Take the metal dowel that comes with your kit, and glue it into the hole on the top/side of the detonator bottom. This will serve as a stop for when you put all three parts together.
The Middle
Insert the larger grub screws into the mid-section with a 2mm hex. These screw in from the top (the side with raised portions) and go all the way through so they stick out the bottom.
These will eventually be used to control the tightness when you assemble the three primary metal pieces together.
Putting the Pieces Together
Take the mid-section and place it in the top section of the detonator. There are three screw holes in the top section that line up with three holes in the mid-section. Use the long screws to clamp this all together.
Line up the screw heads from the top with the recesses in the bottom, it’s almost like the screw heads serve as tabs for the recesses on the bottom.
Once aligned, twist to tighten together. If you’re having trouble, adjust the grub screws until you can easily turn the top and bottom together, and that it has a nice tight fit.
Alright, you’re halfway there!
Some Notes on Electronics
Here’s the wiring diagram. Print it out. Know it. Love it.
Some things to point out here:
- Make sure you trim the legs on your LEDs. There is no extra space to work with so you need to find it wherever you can (just remember, the long legs are positive, the short are negative so trim accordingly).
- Heat shrink your connections!
- The switch has six legs on it, you’ll only need two. Trim them all down as much as possible (but not so much that you can’t solder the wire!
- Test your LEDs and wiring frequently.
Once you’re done with the wiring, it’s time to place all the components in their homes inside the chassis. Screw the mid section to the top section, and then (with some tinkering) attach the bottom.
If you have any questions, leave me a comment below. Otherwise, good luck with your build!
/AP
